Annie Helmericks-Louder Road-Trip Discoveries

8/4/2011, Goodbye to Wiggin's Pass, Naples, Florida

2011-08-14T08:18:00.000-07:00

12" X 12", pastel on paper, plein-aire

6" X 12", pastel on paper, plein-aire

12" X 6" pastel on paper, plein-aire

8/2/2011, Naples, Florida

2011-08-02T08:12:00.001-07:00

12" x 12", pastel on paper

7/31/2011, Naples Florida

2011-08-02T07:55:00.000-07:00

I was gifted today by the presence of 3 courting manatee. They stayed and danced just off shore for about an hour.
9" x 6 ", pastel on paper

12" x 12", pastel on paper

‎"Wabi-sabi nurtures all that is authentic by acknowledging three simple realities: nothing lasts, nothing is finished, and nothing is perfect."(Richard Powell, 2004)

7/24/2011, Wiggins Pass, Naples, FL

2011-07-24T08:04:00.001-07:00

Dawn, Wiggins Pass

12" x 12", pastel on sanded paper

6" X 12", pastel on sanded paper

7/23/2011, Wiggins Pass, Naples, FL

2011-07-23T11:47:00.001-07:00

12" X 12" pastel on sanded paper

Sketching and fishing; at the beach at dawn

7/22/2011, Wiggins Pass, Naples, FL

2011-07-22T13:18:00.001-07:00

9" x 9", pastel on sanded paper

7/20/2011, Wiggins Pass, Naples, FL

2011-07-21T08:11:00.000-07:00

9" X 9", pastel on sanded paper

6" X 18", pastel on sanded paper

7/19/2011, Wiggins Pass, Naples, Florida

2011-07-19T15:05:00.000-07:00

9" x 9", pastel on sanded paper, plein-aire

6" x 18", pastel on sanded paper, plein-aire

7/6/2011, Wiggins Pass, Naples, FL

2011-07-06T08:29:00.000-07:00

#16, 12 x 12

#15, 8 x 4

#14, 12 x 12

# 13 7/5/2011, 11 X 8.5

The beach was totally ours for the first 2 hours this morning. Major exceptions, birds, dolphins, 3 spotted eagle sting rays. I "followed" these beauties for about 1/4 mile along the beach as they made their way into the estuary to feed. Amazing. (My good pastel paper finally arrived yesterday. Thank goodness!)

July 4, 2011, Wiggins State Park, Naples, Florida

2011-07-04T08:44:00.000-07:00

# 12, 8.5 x 11, pastel sketch

# 1, 8.5 x 11, pastel sketch

# 10, 11 x 8.5, pastel sketch

On the beach 6 am - 11am. Somewhat frustrated (art-wise) today as I work to learn a new visual symbolic language. Representation is pretty easy for me but as I work with abstractions, I am stunned at the limit of my expressive visual set. Hummmm. Nothing to do but keep working...not exactly anything to loose--and what a glorious day at the beach!

July 3, 2011, Wiggins Pass National Park, Naples, Florida

2011-07-03T09:15:00.000-07:00

#9, Untitled, 11" x 8.5"

#8, Tide Coming In, 11" x 8.5" (the is the first one I think maybe I like a just little bit...)

#7, Untitled, 11" x 8.5"

#6, Naples Sunrise, 11" x 8.5"

On the beach by 6:30 am, off by 11:30 am. As we drove out of the park we were greeted by LINES of waiting cars--all hoping to get a beach spot. 4th of July weekend!

I set up my little beach shelter for the first time as this body has way overpassed it's life-time sun quota. Also daughter, Faith, and Grandson, baby Kody will be arriving in a week. I can hardly wait to hold both of them in my arms and take Kody for his first time into the sea. Grandmotherhood is so delicious!

Made 4 small works today and watched the tides at their lowest and then change to begin coming in. The adjacent estuary is the passage for many marine lives. The energy of the ocean also changes with its suck and then big pull. Sunny today!

Naples,Florida (Wiggins Pass National Park), July 2, 2011

2011-07-02T07:03:00.000-07:00

(July 2) # 4 Untitled, 11" x 8.5"

July 2 (# 3) 11" x 8.5

"Turtle circle" Up to the beach, turn. Down to the sea. (John in background)

On the beach for sunrise again and a quick retreat by 9am-massive thunder and lighting storm. I was busy working on a passage when John grabbed my shoulder and said, "time to leave". Understatement! Dolphins flashed shiny goodbyes.

2011-07-01T11:16:00.000-07:00

July 1, Naples Florida

We have been here 5 days and have visited and almost eaten and ourselves to death. Yesterday we took our hosts to the airport to make their flight and on the way back a trip to the store. Time to get to get down to 'business'. (Oh how I love being an artist!)

A trip to the store: 2 beach chairs (check), 2 beach towels (check), LOTS of sunscreen, hat, BUG SPRAY (check), fishing hooks (John).

It doesn't matter that I have been here before. I am always a 'visual tourist' until I have gone through quite a few sheets of paper. Even the same place is not the same. That goes for me too. I had ordered and planned my art supplies to arrive here before we did and although beautiful pastels and a drawing board await me, the good paper I need is not here yet. Bummer. Well, cheap stuff will have to do for now. It will get me warmed up anyway. We were at the shore by 6 am, first ones here with only white yellow-slippered shore birds for company. I look and then just make marks. One must begin somewhere....

Naples, Florida (Wiggins Pass National Park)

2011-07-01T10:53:00.000-07:00

John and I are so happy to be back in Florida for 6 weeks. Once again, we house-sitting for our dear friends, Andy and Nuch, while they do a visiting artist gig in Germany. It is a win-win situation for all of us to be sure. We did this before in 2006. You can see this work at:

http://www.helmericks.com/Annie_Helmericks-Louder/Series/Pages/Naples,_Florida_Summer_Series.html

or buy the book, Wiggins Pass: An Artist’s Summer Journal, at:

http://www.blurb.com/bookstore/detail/1309618

But that is another story and I am ready to begin fresh again.

8/7/2010

2010-08-11T09:31:00.001-07:00

Alma, NM, 18" X 24"

pastel on Wallis sanded paper, plein-aire, 8/7/2010

8/6/2010

2010-08-11T09:26:00.000-07:00

Mogollon Mountains, Alma, NM, 18" X 24"

pastel on Wallis sanded paper, plein-aire, 8/6/2010

NFS

8/1/2010

2010-08-01T19:55:00.000-07:00

Rincon Mt. foothills, Vail, AZ, 24" x 18", pastel on Walis sanded paper, plein-aire, 8/1/2010

7/30/2010

2010-07-30T11:33:00.001-07:00

Rincon Mt. Foothills, Vail, AZ, 18" X 24"

pastel on Wallis sanded paper, plein-aire, 7/30/2010

7/28/2010

2010-07-28T11:14:00.001-07:00

Rincon Mt. Foothills, Vail, AZ, 18" X 24"

pastel on Wallis sanded paper, plein-aire, 7/26, 7/28/2010

2010-07-25T20:44:00.000-07:00

Madera Canyon, Santa Rita Mountains, AZ, 24" x 18", pastel on Walis sanded paper, plein-aire, 7/22/2010
NFS

7/21/10

2010-07-21T12:03:00.001-07:00

Rincon Mt. foothills, Vail, AZ, 24" x 18", pastel on Wallis sanded paper, plein-aire, 7/21/2010

7/18/2010

2010-07-19T10:48:00.001-07:00

Rincon Mt. foothills, Vail, AZ, 24" x 18", pastel on Walis sanded paper, plein-aire, 7/19/2010

7/17/2010

2010-07-18T12:47:00.001-07:00

Rincon Mt. foothills, Vail, AZ, 18" x 24", pastel on Walis sanded paper, plein-aire, 7/17/2010

Collector: Leigh Shuldberg, Wittmann, AZ

7/16/2010

2010-07-16T13:15:00.001-07:00

Rincon Mt. Foothills, Vail, AZ, 18" X 24"

pastel on Wallis sanded paper, plein-aire, 7/16/2010

Blue enjoys a sweet drink of rain water.
Rincon foothills, upper canyon.

John and I were graced with a gray morning with heavy overcast. The rare cool allowed John and I a chance to hike after our dawn drawings. There were a few tiny pools in the high rocks left over from a monsoon rain a couple of days ago and the canyon was full of white-winged doves. They were coming to drink at this brief oasis.

7/15/2010

2010-07-15T13:10:00.000-07:00

Rincon Mt. Foothills, Vail, AZ, 18" X 24"

pastel on Wallis sanded paper, plein-aire, 7/15/2010
NFS

7/14/2010

2010-07-15T13:07:00.001-07:00

Rincon Mt. Foothills, Vail, AZ, 18" X 24"

pastel on Wallis sanded paper, plein-aire, 7/14/2010

7/13/2010

2010-07-15T12:40:00.001-07:00

Rincon Mt. Foothills, Vail, AZ, 18" X 24"

pastel on Wallis sanded paper, plein-aire, 7/13/2010

7/7/2010

2010-07-07T09:16:00.000-07:00

Rincon Mt. Foothills, Vail, AZ, 24" X 18", pastel on Wallis sanded paper

plein-aire, 7/7/2010

7/6/2010 Rincon Valley

2010-07-06T10:11:00.000-07:00

Rincon Mt. foothills, Vail, AZ, 24" x 18", pastel on Walis sanded paper, plein-aire, 7/6/2010

7/4/2010

2010-07-04T15:14:00.001-07:00

Rincon Valley Sunrise, 7/4/2010, pastel on Wallis sanded paper, 18" X 24", plein aire

7/3/2010

2010-07-03T14:43:00.000-07:00

Rincon Valley Sunrise, 7/3/2010 pastel on Wallis sanded paper, 18" X 24"

7/2/2010

2010-07-02T15:53:00.001-07:00

I found a great place to draw this morning and got my easel and pastels all set up before I discovered that I had left my large drawing board and paper at home. Bummer. Luckily, I had my small back-pack kit with tiny paper and a few pastel sticks so a little drawing was better than no drawing at all! The morning certainly was not a waste however as Blue and I enjoyed a lovely 2 hour hike. The clean desert was such a treat!

Pastel on Paper, 7" X 10.5", 7/2/2010, plein aire

.....arroyos all washed clean from the rain. Sweet smell of clean desert. Joy, oh joy!

6/30/2010 Rincon Valley, Vail, AZ

2010-07-01T11:44:00.000-07:00

6/30/2010, pastel on sanded Walis paper, 18" X 24", plein-aire
(Windy morning; I had to hold onto the easel with one hand and draw with the other!)
Collection: Louis Barassi, Tucson, AZ, 2010

6/24/2010, Rincon Valley, Vail, AZ

2010-07-01T11:37:00.000-07:00

Monsoon morning over Rincon Peak

6/24/2010, Pastel on sanded Walis paper, 24" X 18"

6/20/2010

2010-06-20T14:59:00.001-07:00

Rincon Mt. foothills, Vail, AZ, 24" x 18", pastel on Walis sanded paper, plein-aire, 6/20/2010

6/17, 6/19/2010

2010-06-19T19:54:00.000-07:00

Rincon Mt. foothills, Vail, AZ, 24" x 18", pastel on Walis sanded paper, plein-aire, 6/19/2010
Collection: Louis Barassi, Tucson, AZ, 2010

After a "Grandma nite" with new baby, thought I would be too tired to go for dawn drawing. Also too tired to fuss with details--good, I like this raw piece. So much for waiting to "be in the mood".

Blue took a huge mesquite thorn in her paw and appreciated a ride on the hike out. Right through her foot the thorn needed pliers--left at home of course. (Note to self: TAKE PLIERS WITH YOU NEXT TIME DUMMY!) What a brave girl Blue Bell is!

2010-06-11T10:54:00.000-07:00

End of Old Colossal Cave Rd, Vail, AZ, 18" x 24", pastel on sanded paper, plein-aire, 6/11/2010

My morning offering to the Insect Folk. (Had a lizard come drink too.)

As a daoist/buddist, I revere all life but especially appreciate the ant world (see:
E.O. Wilson: Ants and Ecosystems). Still, on a practical basis, I do not want to get bit! Dawn and evening hours are busy times for the ants in the desert as they use this cool time for forage. A small offering a few few wait from me satisfies all of our mutual needs.

AddeBlue and I had a visitor this morning just after dawn. We were drawing down in a steep side-canyon just off of the wildlife sanctuary that follows a big wash coming out of the Rincon Mountain foothills.

Suddenly something SCREAMED really loud at us; we both jumped!

There is a big family of vultures there so kind of blew it off--Again, a huge scream. My mind said cat! Then I thought, "oh come on Annie." Then circling around us--another scream. Blue levitated from her nearby spot to glue herself to my knees. She had every hair on her body on-end!

No, did not see a thing so cannot "end" this tale. No other yells after that. Still, woke ME up! Blue too :)

I know, I'm a fool but what luck! We are going back next morning, that's for sure!

6/10/10, Rincon Mountains, Vail, AZ

2010-06-10T10:13:00.000-07:00

On site at dawn; 104 predicted today--early start essential

Rincon Mt. foothills, Vail, AZ, 24" x 18", pastel on Walis sanded paper, plein-aire, 6/10/2010

COLLECTION: Brian and Lori Leeman, Tucson, AZ

Vail, Arizona, 6/7 - 6/8/2010

2010-06-09T12:08:00.000-07:00

Rincon Mt. foothills, Vail, AZ

Rincon Mt. foothills, Vail, AZ, 24" x 18", pastel on Walis sanded paper, plein-aire, 6/8/2010

End of Old Colossal Cave Rd, Vail, AZ, 18" x 24", pastel on Walis sanded paper, plein-aire, 6/7/2010

High veil of cloud at dawn today. Burned off fast so I had to work really fast.
What light! Fantastic!

6/4 - 6/6/2010

2010-06-09T11:56:00.000-07:00

"Ruby". My traveling art studio

Pantano Wash Vail, AZ, 24" x 18", pastel on Walis sanded paper, plein-aire, 6/5/2010

evening light this time

End of Old Colossal Cave Rd, Vail, AZ, 24" x 18", pastel on sanded paper, plein-aire, 6/6/2010
Headed back home by 8:30, Temp today predicted at 108-yow! BEAUTIFUL morning!

Old Colossal Cave Road, 18" x 24", pastel on Wallis sanded paper, plein-aire, 6/4/2010

Note: This morning I remembered to lay down a cap of water and a couple of almonds under a cactus before I began drawing. John and I always used to do this; we called the ceremony an alter for the desert folk. All the insects would gather at this offering and leave us to work in peace. It worked once again today day.

Had to fight hard on this drawing. Guess it was only just as I had been way too smug about my successes yesterday.

6/3/10, Vail AZ

2010-06-09T11:43:00.000-07:00

Rincon Mountain, east, 18" x 24", pastel on sanded paper, plein-aire, 6/3/2010
Collection: David and Rene Baker, Tucson, AZ, 2010

note: 5:30 sunrise to beat the heat--no shade. Clean radiant light, luminous rich dark shadows. 91 degrees by 9:30 am--ant attack on my water jug. Time to go home.

6/3/10, Colossal cave area, Vail, AZ

Arizona, 6/1, 6/2/2010

2010-06-09T11:36:00.000-07:00

Pantano Wash, Vail, AZ, 13" x 11", pastel on BFK Reves paper, plein-aire, 6/2/2010
Collection: John and Jenna Rossman, Tucson, AZ, 2010

Sahuaro Ntl. Mmt., 24" x 18", pastel on sanded paper, plein-aire, 6/2/2010

High Country, Eastern AZ, 5/26/10

2010-06-09T11:25:00.000-07:00

Eastern Arizona, 24" x 18", pastel on sanded paper, plein-aire, 5/26/2010

5/25/2010, New Mexico

2010-06-09T11:20:00.000-07:00

Alma Bridge, New Mexico, 24" x 18", pastel on sanded paper, plein-aire, 5/25/2010

Glenwood, NM 5/24/10

2010-06-09T11:11:00.000-07:00

New Mexico, 13" x 11", pastel on BFK Reves paper, plein-aire, 5/24/2010
Glenwood, New Mexico, 24" x 18", pastel on Walis sanded paper, plein-aire, 5/24/2010

Glenwood, NM, 5/23/2010

2010-06-09T10:54:00.000-07:00

Southwest New Mexico, 13" x 11", pastel on BFK Reves paper, plein-aire, 5/23/2010

Catwalk Canyon, New Mexico, 13" x 11", pastel on BFK Reves paper, plein-aire, 5/23/2010

5/22/2010 New Mexico

2010-06-09T09:17:00.000-07:00

New Mexico, 13" x 11", pastel on BFK Reves paper, plein-aire, 5/22/2010

NEW Roadtrip, SUMMER 2010

2010-06-09T09:01:00.000-07:00

On the road again, whoopee, whoopee, I'm on the road again....

This time I'm flying solo for a few weeks to be later joined by my truelove, John Louder. My late May trip--starting the drive from Missouri and heading to Arizona--will be additionally sweetened by it's destination. My daughter is having her first child; I'm going to a GRANDMOTHER! Joy, greatest Joy!

I will arrive early; make art. Help daughter; make art. Welcome grandson, Kody; make art. Keep out of my daughters hair; make art. Celebrate all things grand; make art. Well you get the picture.

If you want to come along, let me share my work as I go. This time I am only taking drawing supplies. I'm traveling light and working out the my trusty art-mobile-studio. All works are plein-aire (done on location)unless otherwise noted. I will include all that I made without edit or revision--let the chips (artwork) fall where they may. This is a renewal of facilities and information; I release all expectations of 'liking or not liking'. The works are what they are. Discovery is enough.

4/11, Paris--Arkansas!

2009-05-11T17:40:00.001-07:00

Heading north and leaving Louisiana behind, we also reversed the speed of the seasons. A day's drive took us into higher elevations (up from the 100' coastal lands to 350-700') and higher latitudes. Louisiana's summer quickly gave way to the newest beginnings of spring green: redbuds and dogwood flowers. Sweet cool air smelling of fresh rain- washed fields. Sigh. Long, deep breaths. The bugs also backed off. I needed more time to experience midwest spring. Yeah! It looks like I am going to get it.

Look closely at the long-necked bird (American Bittern) posing as a twig. Now you see it; now you don't.

4/9, Hot Springs Arkansas

2009-05-11T17:39:00.000-07:00

Hot Springs, Arkansas is an old resort town based on the natural hot springs located in the center of town. It is located at the base of a couple really big piles of rock (low mountains) whose amazing geological structure have been obscured by foliage and pretty much ignored by town. Still, its massive structure sneaks into view in some places and reminds one that the 'old' buildings, of which the town is rightfully proud of, are really not so 'old' after all.

Very wet weather and some interesting galleries kept us visiting Hot Springs for a couple of days. I'm sorry to say that we did not, however, enjoy a hot springs bath. The grand old baths are now pretty much just for show (historical tours) and the one operating showcase establishment was public--bathing suits only. We have been spoiled on this trip by so many other places with lovely private pools.

A funny side note about the old bath houses. This was a deluxe destination place for the elite to take the waters and bath; men and women's rooms were separate. Both sections had extensive tubs for mud and mineral baths as well as steam boxes (ghastly coffin looking things--you would never catch me being closed up in one of those things!), massage tables, etc. White tiled, it was easy to image pampering sessions with many attendants and fluffy towels. The two sections were quite different however. While the Ladies section was purely functional, the gentlemen's quarters included a lounging pool complete with life-sized statue (indian maiden kneeling submissively at soldier's feet), and this amazing stained-glass window (bare-breasted beauties). Humm. I guess the Ladies must have been too delicate to appreciate this kind of 'art'.
One last adventure: As we were about to go to sleep in our motel room we turned on the TV just in time to hear the weather announcer tell all Hot Springs residents to 'go to their basements--now" tornado warning. (No, the motel management did not notify guests.) There was no basement in our lodgings so we grabbed pillows, flashlight, underwear and shoes (essentials), and prepared to huddle in the fiberglass tub. Luckily, at the last moment the tornado swerved. Not so lucky for the poor people 10 miles away.

The next morning as we drove again north we passed several campgrounds. The wet and shocked looking campers were gathered by their blown-apart camps looking stunned. It could have been us except for our decision to rent a room to avoid crowded campgrounds.

Tornado country. We must be getting close to home.

4/7, Louisiana

2009-05-05T05:12:00.000-07:00

Perhaps you have heard of 'cow-tipping'. I don't really know what cows think of that practice but I feel like I have been 'Annie-tipped'. I am up-ended--legs in the air. I have no idea WHAT season this is and I don't know WHERE I am! Full summer here--from the looks of things and in this green, wet land--even the plants bit and sting. We travel winding levied roads and the trees close in around us like giant folding hands. The occasional glimpses off the shoulders reveal dark, tannied-watered lands. Submerged. We find a 'dry' place to pull off and as we step from the car the ground underfoot squishes; sounds of insects and birds swell--infinite orchestras tuning. In the tiny back-woods villages, the people seem to speak another language. Sentences are slippery; syllables are stretccccccccched out. Louisiana. Louuuuuuisiiiiiiannnnna.

4/6, Driving across Texas

2009-05-01T06:42:00.000-07:00

If one has to come off of mountains, Texas must be going it 'cold turkey'. John had a friend once who mentioned that a person could grow old during the time it took to drive across Texas. True that!

See, I am still sulking. Honestly though, Texas is a very big and very wide and very 'level' state.

A note of interest: as well as distance, oil rigs, cows and vistas, we saw mile after mile (hundreds and hundreds) of huge wind generators. Like everything else here, Texas is doing it really BIG. You can get a sense of the scale of these things if you look at the service door at the base of these giants (last pic). Good for Texas!

4/3... and on some more

2009-04-26T12:37:00.000-07:00

Speaking of wide open spaces.....We have been accompanied the last couple of days of driving by a series of vigorous wind-storms. Going the same directions as our travels, John says the winds are blowing us back home. He tells me to give up holding on and just go with the flow and so it appears it must be so.

White Sands National Monument put on a stunning show with the air turned as white as the sands by the wind. I stayed in the car (sulking), with a bandana over my nose to keep out the dust, but John--so true to his spirit--skipped off to dance on the dunes.

We ended up this night in the 'out-of-time-town' of Truth or Consequences. This town won a 1950's competition and named itself after a TV game show. The show is gone (?) and the town remains apparently stuck in the time of its conception. The site of numerous natural warm-springs still in operation, we spent the night in an old motor court. Immaculately clean--if not a bit strange--it often hosts meditation and yoga retreats. Unlimited access to private hot baths were included as part of registration so we took 2 long, delicious soaks. These proved to be just the thing to warm my bones and soul.

Side note: Jeanie, this place was so like some of our early haunts. There were even oleander bushes outside the windows and the light through the curtains was so Arizona childhood.

4/3 On across New Mexico...

2009-04-26T12:03:00.000-07:00

We stopped for a morning and walked around the high, bright town of Silver City, New Mexico. We found lots of art galleries, bought art supplies and yarn, had a great lunch, checked out real estate prices (too high for my budget--bummer) and bought a great loaf of bread which, for the next couple of days, greatly improved our quick-stop coffee breakfasts.

About the dog....this confident gal was running along the downtown streets (?) and paused just long enough for me to take her picture. This is a portrait of the two of us.

Today we leave the mountains for real. I have been holding John back as much as I can but he is anxious to make Missouri in time to see his Painting Seniors Graduation Show. Now it is not that I haven't missed my Missouri home and my students too, but the realization that these will be our last mountains before we set off across America's great middle strikes me unexpectedly hard. I have been delaying this departure for as long as possible and I am surprised by a real sense of desperation. I had not expected this to be so hard. I am surprised to be so saddened. I love the open spaces and great plains but this time there will not be another set of mountains waiting on the other side. I find myself silently crying most of the last afternoon as we drop down over the last range and into the great flat space beyond. I turn around to catch the last glimpse of the last purple ridges fading.

4/2 Mogollon New Mexico

2009-04-23T16:36:00.000-07:00

Mogollon, New Mexico is a living ghost town--at least I think it is living as we saw only one occupant the day we visited. (Signs assured the traveler that the town reopens in May.) Founded in 1870 by miners who discovered silver there, Mogollon is perched precariously in a narrow gorge which is itself already 7,000' in the rugged Mogollon Mountains. As weird as the town may be, its appearence does not even hold a candle to the route the traveler must travel to get to it. John and I have now established a new paradigm for a narrow and winding road! The early miners hauled their massive equipment up and down with 18 horse wagons with (I would hope), really powerful brakes!

As one takes the Mogollon turnoff a modest sign notifies the driver that trailers are not allowed and driving at night is not recommended. No kidding. Although paved, there are no guard rails and as the hair-pin turns snake up the last 7 miles the road becomes a narrow one-lane with no advanced visibility in which to spot approaching vehicles and absolutely no turn-out, turn-around, or passing spaces. The drop-offs were astonishing. Once committed to the route, there was no backing out (so to speak). I used up all my Hail Marys praying no one would be coming the other way and I must be in good standing because (thankfully), no one did.

Sorry, I have no pictures of the journey up as I was on the inside of the curves and (Egads!) once I was on the outside coming down, the last evening light was directly in my camera's lense, (and the driver's eyes). Something about the chance of any other car coming in the opposite direction removed all desire to stop and linger. For those who think I exaggerate (now imagine that!), ask John. He has a reputation for exactness and he also had to listen to my howls all the way up and all the way down. Still even though I think I wore holes in my sock clenching my toes and almost pulling the grips off of the arm of the car, the view was astonishingly beautiful. I will never be quite the same. Oh yes, Mogollon was pretty wonderful too.

View west starting the climb up to Mogollon.

Mogollon's (as far as we know), sole full-time occupant.

4/2, Catwalk Trail, New Mexico

2009-04-22T13:52:00.001-07:00

Pastel and Charcoal on Sanded Wallis Paper, Plein-Aire, 24" X 18", (unfinished)

Dreaming of Western Canyons, John Louder

I stumbled upon the Catwalk over 20 years ago. At that time, it was not well know except by locals and parts of the walk were so narrow, rusted and rickity as to require a serious set of nerves to pass over many sections. Now famous and beautifully restored, it isn't just 'mine' any more. Now it gets the respect and protection it deserves. It is impossible to capture the beauty and sound of this canyon cathedral in photographs. There is no way these photos say very much--the scale was impossible to describe. The waterfalls and boulders you will see are often 200' - 800' or more in scale and yet the narrow canyon dimmed by its own shadows was hushed and intimate. I am looking forward to trying to interpret this canyon in my later studio works. Don't know if I can get close but am looking foward to spending more time with this place--if only in my memory and mind.

In 1889 silver and gold was discovered in the Mogollon Mountains above Whitewater Canyon, just outside of Glenwood. Several mines were developed, and ore was hauled in wagons to a mill at the mouth of the Canyon. Water to operate the electric generators came from a pipeline reaching up into the Canyon. The pipeline was held onto the rock walls of the Canyon with timbers and iron bars that were in constant need of maintenance. Workmen dubbed it the Catwalk, and today it is operated as part of the Whitewater Canyon National Forest Recreation Area.^[3] Today it is the site of the one-mile Catwalk National Recreation Trail.(Wikipedia)

4/1/09 Glenwood, NM and Alma Canyon

2009-04-17T15:43:00.000-07:00

No, this barrel cactus is not in New Mexico. But hey, what a picture!

Ah Southwestern New Mexico! Now I know but now I have really lost all creditability regarding my really favorite place. Wyoming, Nevada--magnificent Nevada, but I must say that the area in and around the Mogollon Mountains with the little town of Glenwood as bull's eye has got to my truest idea of heaven. The vast spaces, silver-yellowed hills dotted with junipers (gum drop trees), blue rugged mountains, portal narrow canyons lined with rose and purple boulders and cliffs, clear-golden and fast-rushing cold streams......Well. Heaven. I have been to this area many times in my past and alway wonder how I can ever leave. Yes, this is my favorite place. It fits the landscape of my emotional heart just perfectly. My body melts into all its parts--plants, rocks, waters--without divide. My oh my.

It was to the little town of Glenwood that we found our first night of lodging away from my daughter's Arizona home and was the perfect place to try to set aside my sadness at parting. We found a secluded cabin run by a gentle couple and settled in for a couple of nights. Although we were only able to spend this brief time, we made the most of every moment. In the blogs to follow you will go with us through Alma Canyon, Whitewater Canyon with it's Catwalk Trail and the weird and wonderful living ghost town of Mogollon. Enjoy

Glenwood, New Mexico time.

Alma Canyon, Alma New Mexico

3/29 Last Arizona Week-End

2009-04-17T14:56:00.000-07:00

Let me jump back a few days to our last few days before we left Arizona and started our journey back to Missouri:

Faith pulled some of her many "strings" and surprised John and I with a luxurious night at Tucson's Westin La Paloma Resort. We jokingly called it "Camp La Paloma" and although it did have the night skies of our little tent camps--it certainly showcased other treats and amenities. Some of these included exquisite linens and bedding, thick thick towels and robes, a sunset view from the balcony of our suite... You get the idea.

Actually this was just the beginning of the weekend to come as we had planned a two-couples weekend with Faith and Julian. Our idea was to spend a night away--someplace not too far and yet far enough that Julian and Faith would not be able to bring their work-lives with them. Both of these young people work such long hours; we wanted them to have a break from all cares. We booked bed & breakfast rooms in a beautifully re-done 1930's ranch home outside of Patagonia, AZ. It had that wonderful old style that only comes with time. The walled patio was filled with wild, courting birds--4 types of hummingbirds and 2 types of orioles--to mention just a few. My birder husband was in heaven. (Matt and Amber, how I thought of you two!) These delights were all overlaid by the monastic tones of an unbelievable, large wind-chime. (Music of the Spheres tuned to the note of G--I MUST have one of these wonders for my own home.) I think that Julian and Faith must have felt a bit strange walking around the now-pretend ranch when their weekends are often filled with the real thing but still they humored us graciously and then those little skamps snuck into the host's office and paid the bill before we knew what they were up to. I could not decide wether to be pissed at them or proud. I'm sticking with proud. What a thing it is to see one's kids become such amazing adults.

Before we leave, Faith and John making dinner.

The Patagonia B & B

Julian, John and Faith

You-know-who documenting the weekend.

Annie, John, Faith and Julian. Not that we need another treat!

We finally got a chance to go across the border; Faith's old boss and dear friends, Chris and Alicia, suggested dinner at Alicia's restaurant in Nogalas, Sonora, Mexico. Although they could not be with us for the evening, they promised Faith that they would let their manager know we were coming. When Faith mentioned that due to border tensions she was a little uncomfortable with crossing into Mexico--they said they would send someone to escort us across. So that evening as we passed through the border stiles, here was a uniformed gentleman waiting with a name card--just like in the airports.

Now I have been crossing at this place since I was a child but this evening was different. Saturday night at in Nogalas always meant throngs of people--from both sides--laughing, shopping and dining. This time we saw no other Americans; all the Mexicans were obviously gracious and welcoming to let this little group of Americans pass by. The shops were mostly empty. We never did conclude if the border is really more dangerous than it ever was but the perception that it is, has certainly levied economic hardships on the everyday Mexican citizens just trying to go about their own lives and businesses.

To go back to our own evening. This elegant restaurant and its staff treated us like kings and queens and fed us fabulously delicious foods made in the very best Sonoran style. Again we were surprised when the check did not come--our dinner had been Alicia's treat! Thank you Alicia for the wonderful night with my beautiful daughter (and of course Julian and John too)! I would have been so sad not to have at least stepped into my most favorite country--Mexico.

3/31, Leaving Arizona

2009-04-07T18:39:00.000-07:00

It is with a heavy heart that I leave not only my home-state, but also leaving the home of my beautiful daughter. I truely believe that mothers and daughters were meant to live close by each other. Faith, thank you so much for sharing your sweet house and loving animals. How I already miss you.

Arizona showed us her very best as we rode the strong winds heading east. We left Vail and continued north at Safford and then east again on Highway 78--its curves guiding us towards New Mexico. Once again, the road was all our own. It is an amazing thing to leave the freeways--the small roads are still still there--full of beauty and adventure.

Northern AZ, 3/22

2009-03-28T11:35:00.000-07:00

Faith, John, my nephew Luke and I traveled to Scottsdale to attend the memorial of my beloved aunt, Janet Cutler. It was amazing to celebrate, with others, this woman who lived a magnificent life and who was consequently loved by so many people.

It seemed appropriate afterwards--this was what Janet would have done--to take off on another adventure. So Faith, John and I went on north for the next couple of days to explore upper Arizona. It was only a 'touch quick' trip but still so great to revisit this part of the state. Most people think of Arizona as desert and cactus but at least 1/3 of the state is high country.

I will start off by saying it was a VERY WINDY weekend. This did not stop us, however, from hiking many trails and visiting some fabulous places. Just to mention a few: Sunset Crater Volcano, Wupatki ruins and Sedona. The mysterious native american ruins--over 800 years old and still remarkably preserved were by far the high-light of the trip. Perhaps due to the challenging weather, most of our trails and stops were without hardly any visitors and we had these incredible places mostly to ourselves. The beauty and spirituality of these sites are incredible. They are too special to try and say anything about in just a few words so I will let the pictures speak for themselves.

The funny part of the story is that we had originally set off to find a meteor crater and we never did. I guess that must be an adventure for the future. Still, it was a fabulous weekend!

Cochise Stronghold, AZ 3/20

2009-03-26T14:15:00.000-07:00

Cochise Stronghold is located in a small mountain range whose diminutive size--as compared to its neighboring Chiricahua Mountains--initially denies its relevance. It's bony silhouette is intriguing from a distance but seen up close--awe soon replaces any doubt. Homeland of the Chiricahua Apache, this rugged natural fortress was home, refuge and final resting place for the famed Apache, Chief Cochise. It is easy how one could stage a hold-out here. The cliffs and accordion crevasses fold into the canyon and lay over-lapping, petal-life--only visible as one starts to climb. The silence is profound, punctuated only by the occasional haunting notes of a canyon wren.

Our 4-day visit to this amazing place only scratched the surface; each drawing and each hike brought private and new discoveries. The campground was tired-out and crowded at this Spring Break time but by taking just a few steps away from camp, chatter was replaced by a feelings of reverence and wonder. Luckily there are several sites nearby for wilderness camps. This is a place that draws us both deeply. It is a sacred place. I want to return.

Charcoal and Pastel on Paper, 22" X 30"

Charcoal and Pastel on Paper, 30" X 22"

Steps made by others. So many, many years ago

Girls Weekend 3/15

2009-03-26T11:10:00.000-07:00

Nothing sweeter than a weekend away with my beautiful daughter, Faith. Shopping, a luxurious, secluded southwest Bed & B in Florence, Arizona, and last--a afternoon at the Boyce Thompson Areboretum--now who can ask for more?

Alamo Canyon, 3/8/09. Organ Pipe Natl. Park

2009-03-21T07:54:00.000-07:00

Organ Pipe Natl. Momt., Again. 3/8

2009-03-13T15:18:00.000-07:00

Charcoal and Pastel on Paper, 22" X 30", Plein-Aire

Charcoal and Pastel on Paper, 18" X 30", Plein-Aire

The border. Reality check.

That little line you see going over the hill beyond is the border fence. We camped so close to this border that we could catch snatches of spanish songs as we painted. How different from when I was a child when crossing was familiar and friendly. I have had so many friends that were illegal, wonderful hard working folk sending money back for desperate family. The most honorable sons and fathers and mothers came across. They still do--risking all to try and make some kind of a living. How sad this all makes me.

3/6, Yellow Orange, Orange, Red Orange... Organ Pipe Natl. Park

2009-03-11T17:17:00.000-07:00

3/2/09 Family and other silly good stuff

2009-03-09T20:12:00.000-07:00

Flashback to Rodeo times. Faith treated us to deluxe seats at the Rodeo and I surprised her by showing up all dressed up in an past alter ego--cowgirled up. (Clothes borrowed from my daughter's closet.) This cheese-cake photo is for you dearest Faith.

The girls, all done up!

Faith

Madera Canyon, 2/28/09

2009-03-09T18:50:00.000-07:00

Charcoal and Pastel on Paper, 30" X 22", Plein-Aire

Madera Canyon is really a home-coming for me. John and I camped this time at the very site where I had watched my baby daughter, Faith, take her first steps (33 years ago). In Madera's canyons I watched my mother enjoy the last camps of her life before she lost her battle with cancer (23 years ago). My son Matt so loved this canyon that it was where he decided make his life's work about birds and biology. My son Alex won the hiker's title of Antelope Alex as he found his long, fast stride on the steep trails here. These very rocks, stream and trees watched over me as a child and molded and formed me into who I am. Home.

In the valley below, Tucson sweated in a premature summer heat (90's) but the Santa Rita Mountains graced us with several delightfully cool days and gentle star-filled nights. We slept to the songs of night jars and woke to the laughter of wild turkeys. When we were not hiking or making art, I lounged in our tent reading Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance. In my 20's I roared through this book. Now re-reading it at the suggestion of my eldest son, (thank you Ben!) I have been taking it--like it should be read--just a few pages at a time. Exploring the experience of reality and time, this classic proved just the thing in sorting through all the fragments of my memories with this personally sacred mountain.

Oil Sketch, 12" X 16", Plein Aire

My happy, happy honey.

2/22 Rodeo

2009-03-09T18:22:00.000-07:00

Every year at this time, Tucson goes through some kind of western fever. Everyone who ever worn, and everyone who has never worn, cowboy hats and boots, suddenly suits up and struts about town. As when I was a little kid, Tucson still lets out all its school kids for 2 days so that everyone can attend the Tucson Rodeo Parade and the Tucson Rodeo.

Now I must confess that I too have been a part of this in many past years and went this year as well. I must also confess that I am quite conflicted by the Rodeo especially. More and more I question human's "humaneness" in this kind of blatant domination.

In the great rodeo play all participants fill carefully scripted roles--audience, riders and animals alike. After the rodeo, the bucking beasts dutifully load on familiar trucks to be taken to re-enact their behavior at the next rodeo down the road; likewise the cowboys. The cowboys have a choice--the stock do not. Still I will not place judgement as my hands have not been exactly 'clean'. Let pictures speak for themselves.

Gila Box, AZ, 2/21/09

2009-03-02T16:02:00.000-08:00

After leaving Julian's ranch, we enjoyed an overnight's rest in motel clean sheets; we found a natural hot springs and took an hour's soak. The hot springs establishment was a bit funky but hey, after 3 camping nights, it felt like heaven. The next stop took us to the local big-store to load up on groceries, buy an additional bed comforter and big fat air mattress. (Apologies to all the campers I have 'dissed' in years past. Once a righteous backpacker, I have been known to trash others with all their car-camping stuff. Oh, I take it all back; I am converted. Big air mattresses are the bomb.) This time we will be comfortable in the tent!

Gila Box Raparian National Conservation Area is a marvel. The protected area surrounds 4 perennial waterways and covers over 23,000 acres. This secluded and remote area, (the camp host told us they really have few visitors) proved to be such a gem. It is an oasis jewel surrounded by rugged desert hills and illustrating the perfect marriage of apparent opposites. In the four days we enjoyed this stately place, I came to think of it as the land above and the land below--desert sky top, wet and secluded underbelly of life and green. Standing on the bluffs, it seemed impossible to believe--even after we had seen them--the long, deep beaver ponds with their happy occupants below.

Further downstream, all waters will be syphoned from this majestic Gila River. It will be totally dry--sucked bare by the time it passes out of Arizona. But for this brief time, John and I celebrated this, still wild and free, rush of wet life and let it's flowing sounds, golden light and green life, fill and refresh our souls.

Special Note: Many thanks to the camp hosts who love this canyon and keep the camp-sites immaculate. Thank you for your gracious and warm welcome.

Oil Sketch on Canvas, 12" X 16", Plein-Aire

Oil Sketch on Canvas, 16" X 12", Plein-Aire

Oil sketch on Canvas, 12" X 16", Plein-aire

Julian's Ranch 2/16

2009-02-24T12:24:00.001-08:00

(top row) Julian Sr., Rose, Julian and Faith

(bottom row) Cakes and Be-Be

John and I were very lucky to be invited to share a weekend on an Arizona working cattle ranch owned by the family of Faith's sweetheart. This ranch, located in the high rough desert between the Santa Teresa and the Pinaleno Mountains, covers over 9,000 acres of deeded and leased (Bureau of Land Management) land. Like many ranch families, this is mostly a weekend enterprise as most in the cattle industry need "day" jobs to supplement this financially difficult enterprise. Romance for the land and love of this life-style keeps this family working--hard as beasts--real old-fashioned sweat labor. Purchased with just a site well, this team (including Faith) have put in over 7 miles of water lines, several wells and built corrals, bunk and tack houses and generally busted fanny in a way few American people do today. Together, they have become a proud, fine and fit team.

John and my job? Keep out of the way and not get hurt! (We hiked and made art while the others did round-up, vaccinating, etc.)

A side note: For many years I also lived and worked the ranch life. I was carrying Faith during this time and although soon after, ranching was no longer part of my life, the cowgirl gene had 'took'. Faith has always lived and breathed horse; she dreams horse, she speaks horse. Even though during the weekdays she dresses elegantly and takes her silver Jetta to her executive office, she is always biding time till she is in boots again. A far finer horsewoman than I ever was, I am proud to pass on the reins.

Faith with Be-Be and Cakes

Julian takes a moments rest.

Peter does too.

Julian's ranch # 2, Pastel on Paper, 22" X 30", Plein-Aire

Julian's Ranch # 1, Charcoal on Paper, 22" X 30", Plein-Aire

This old ocotillo fence was left over from sheep herding days. The dry air helps to preserve the old structures and the minimal vegetation leaves it visible.

We tried out the tent for naps but did not sleep in it--too cold (below freezing at night with wind) and not enough bed-pads and covers. Instead we bundled in the bunk-house with the wood stove. Tent next time!

John and Faith

Snow in Tucson! 2/10

2009-02-23T19:36:00.000-08:00

This is Petie--Faith's constant companion. This little guy is a well-known Tucson character--a featured "star" on a local tv news story profiling the Tucson Rodeo Parade Committee. Petie can always be seen riding on the back of Faith's saddle while she rides on parade. Petie, like many little dogs, has no idea that he is small. Even at 12 years old he runs circles around her other 2 'pups' and 1 cat and keeps the household under strict control. Peter, as you can see, thinks it snowed just for him. This white delight unexpectedly greeted us this morning as we stepped outside to walk the 'fellas'. Pantano wash lies just down the hill from Faith's Vail home and while we are here it is our lucky job to daily walk the dogs. It stretches all of our legs and keeps us in fine spirits.

John with Blue Bell ("Be-Be") and Short Man ("Cakes")

Sahuaro Natl. Park, East, 2/7

2009-02-23T19:10:00.000-08:00

Home to Tucson! 2/5/09

2009-02-23T18:56:00.000-08:00

Sahuaro Natl. Park, West

Tucson is my home town. Although I was lucky to travel extensively as a young person, (thanks to my amazing writer-mother) Tucson was always homebase. My beloved grandmother, Winnie lived here and my earliest memories include mourning doves cooing outside my window and the amazing smell of the desert after a rain. Oh wonderful Arizona. How grand it is to see you again. This visit is additionally sweetened because my beautiful daughter, Faith, lives here. She has offered her home as our base-camp. We will spend several weeks here going out to the surrounding lands and returning to refresh in Faith's nurturing home. And how I have looked forward to spending time with this wonderful woman. Wonderful, sweet, beloved, amazing, home. Yes, I must use these words again. They are so true!

Organ Pipe Natl. Park, AZ 2/4

2009-02-23T18:39:00.000-08:00

What an amazing park! Although we only spent one day here, this is definitely a come-back!

2/3 Ajo, AZ

2009-02-13T20:03:00.000-08:00

Filled with wonderful old Arizona-style homes and a beginning artist community, Ajo AZ is a really cute town! (Cute, but according to government reports also the site of very high arsenic levels--a legacy of its past mining history. Gee, this kind of story is sounding sadly familiar.)

After we checked into our cabin (see last photo), we drove a few miles back north to where we had seen some of our trip's first sahuaros. Oh it is grand to see these desert fathers again! Once we got out of the car, we noticed how very dry the air felt. It was dryer than any place we had visited so far--even Death Valley.

The light was fading fast so we quickly set up for our evening plein-aire art session. It was not long before I was visited by a couple of bees. As it happens, I am highly allergic to bees. As it also happens, I had read just the day before that all southwest bees are now considered to have been Africanized. Still, a drawing just begun in a beautiful place with great light, has a lot of pull. Many marks later I realized that the 2 bees had gone home and brought back their sisters--there were now about 20 of them. Now I have read that it is quite possible for a human to outrun African bees and I was once quite a runner. Hummmm. Rethink moment! Now just how fast can I--now very middle-aged--still run? I grabbed up all my stuff, sticks of pastels, easel, backpack, etc., (NO, I was not going to leave my art stuff!), into a giant wad and hoofed it as fast as I could towards the car 500 yards away. (The bees were keeping up just fine.) I could see John working next to the car but I could also see the he was surrounded by hundreds of bees! Attracted by his water in the watercolors, his palette was a blurr of wiggling bee-bodies. Many bees had become multi-colored, stained by the paints in his pan. Needless to see, even though we were not done, we certainly were finished. Luckily the bees were more interested in the water we hastily poured on the ground (poor thirsty creatures), than us and we were able to pile our stuff into Ruby and find refuge. The bees were seriously pissed by then; oh was I glad for fast power windows. Once on the road we released the few unintended bee passengers.

All is well that ends well.

More Mohave...

2009-02-13T10:44:00.001-08:00

Let me tell you a quick note about this place: Hole in the Wall. High noon light and photos cannot do it justice but to describe it briefly--you go in one side of the pile of rocks and exit through the narrowest of passageways--out the other side. A small sign that I saw on the way out indicates that this trail may require a higher degree of fitness (probably not me!) and must be undertaken carefully. (No kidding.) Look at John's blog to see photos of me with an astonished look on my face to find myself squeezed into long vertical spaces and pulling myself along with the help of metal rings installed in the rock walls.

Mohave Desert 2/2

2009-02-13T10:12:00.001-08:00

Zoom in to see how many barrel cactus you can find! I have not been able to find the name of this particular type of barrel cactus but if I were to name them, I would call them Ruby. Too early yet for flowers, this amazing color is the result of the sun shining on the brillant-colored spines. Interesting fact: barrels are drawn towards direct sunlight. Faster growth on the barrel's shady side causes them to to lean in a southerly direction, hence the name 'compass cactus'. (Source: Field Guide to the Plants of Arizona, by Anne Orth Epple)

Now for these little guys (name?). Dainty beyond belief and for all appearances 'hovering' weightless just above the ground, these scarlet plants are found along roadsides and was bottoms where just the barest additional runoff provide them sufficient habitat. They stand out from all the other neutral-colored plants--a shawl of lace over the shoulders of the earth.

2/1, Yuma, AZ area. Mining ghost towns

2009-02-13T07:23:00.000-08:00

Remnants of old settlements have been scattered along the lands that we have passed. How fast the debris disappears into the vastness of the desert lands especially. Foundations crumble and wood rots; soon only metals and shards of glass remain. I am again reminded of the temporality of our species on this planet--although we do leave a very large mess--in the planet's time-life, we are but a hiccup. Still, some of our flotsam is more lasting.

We encountered the ruins of this old mining town just north of Yuma, Arizona. Once a town of over 10,000, all that is left are piles of refuse and these vats--once used to hold and chemically float or extract precious metals from tons and tons of mostly, hand-dug dirt. In this town the vats were positioned at the base of the hills and above the town. Periodically there would be a man or nature caused failure and the sludge would pour down over the town--burying houses, cemeteries and schools. They would dig-out and rebuild again; oh, the lust for fortune. When we visited, evidence of paths of old flows--hardened and in sand dune form were everywhere. Also everywhere were clusters of modern-day pioneers--mostly retired couples in motorhomes. In this Yuma area we have seen the most of these 'snow birds'. I am grudgingly gaining respect for these folks. I have had an attitude about the huge motorhomes with their giant 'foot-print', but am also rethinking my judgments (somewhat), as I personally meet these adventurous folk with their happy and open faces. Outside of RV parks and on free public land, we have seen these small spontaneous communities sprout, each camp positioned a discrete, respectful distance from each other or circled 2 or 3 together for mutual support and companionship. Still as we watched them settle down for the night and bring out their folding chairs, a evening wind picked up. Fine particles of cyanide and mercury-filled (?) sand blew everywhere, setting on past and current populations alike.

Boulder City, NV, 1/29-30

2009-02-11T15:09:00.000-08:00

Now for some post-dated entries:

The end of January found John and I visiting old friends in Boulder City, NV. As a surprise, John booked us in for a couple of nights at Boulder City's classic old hotel--you know how I love the old historical places. Boulder City has such an interesting history as it was THE place when Boulder Dam was built. The city's founders, constructing the ideal town for the 'top' folk, had trainloads of dirt (yes, dirt!) brought in to supplement the desert's sandy soil. They further tried to make the town look more 'back-east-like' by planting familiar plants, etc. Boulder City today still remains a unique enclave--a true small-town. It is next to--but very separate in all ways from--its neighbor Las Vegas.

In route to Boulder City we had made a brief stop in Las Vegas to replenish our art supplies. With open-mouths, we witnessed mile after mile of arrested building projects and entirely new and completely shut down housing projects and commercial strip malls. The poor souls there are taking the economic hit terribly hard right now.

We were happy and relieved to find our friends in Boulder City in good spirits with their home full of life. Alan is a fellow Whitman College alumni of Johns. Alan is fabulous photographer (visit Alan's site at www.goyaphotography.com), and Lynn is an accomplished free-lance writer. We ate, visited and laughed together and then the entire family took us to out to 'their' own very special desert canyon for a last send-off. What fine companions indeed!

Blazing Bravery

2009-02-03T07:20:00.000-08:00

No photos this morning. I just want to tell you about a blazing act of bravery I witnessed yesterday morning.

We were have breakfast in Needles, CA at a Dennys. Needles is one of the many towns that we have seen devastated by the current economy. Shuttered stores everywhere and empty, boarded houses.

As we were eating, a young server suddenly dropped her work and raced past customers and out the door. I saw her charge across the parking lot to where, from the window, she had witnessed a man kicking a dog. She thought nothing for her own safety or what her boss might think but responded entirely on instinct to protect the dog. The man was so astonished to see this charging woman that he turned and fled. (I don't know what happened to the dog). The entire cafe was watched her return to her job, pick up her tickets and proceed with her order. Everyone was open-mouthed. She was shaking and tearful as she, herself, could not believe what she had done. Before we left I approached her and told her that since her mama had not been able to witness her act of courage and heart, I would be the mama that had seen her. Of course there were hugs and tears but that is not the story. This woman is the story. What heart and courage to put action behind her beliefs. Iwonder how many times I have thought strongly about something but did not act. She was my heroine. What a lioness.

Valley of Fire, NV, 1/30/09

2009-02-01T20:15:00.000-08:00

Spring Creek Ranch, Nevada

2009-02-01T20:13:00.000-08:00

Farewell to Death Valley

2009-02-01T19:56:00.000-08:00

(Jubilee, Death Valley. Our last evening)

Our days in this wonderful place have made us once again aware of how unempty this place is. I know that I make decisions and evaluations on comparisons (i.e. Missouri is wet, Death Valley is dry). Arizona was my childhood home-state so deserts are not new to me. Still, I have been chastised, so to speak, by this current so-direct experience. The photo above show the 'scat' of a small animal (kit fox?). This rock in the middle of 'nowhere' is important for this creature who leaves their droppings and marks. The droppings ranged very old and dried out to each one progressively fresh until the last dropping must have been made the night before. Important marks in this tiny kingdom.

This being is unaware that the planet's dominant and most dangerous species is currently frightened over economic affairs. It will be affected as the climate changes. The environment it lives in is so fragile. Also so strong. The mountains do not consider our problems. The mountains will go on. With, or without us. I am somehow strangely comforted by this realization. The mountains will go on.

Deserts and More Water, Special thanks to Paula and the other Ash Meadows Staff!

2009-02-01T07:17:00.000-08:00

Twenty Mule Team Road, Death Valley, NV

Although in the desert, all one's senses deny the possibility of a life based on water, unexpected oasis exist. Just west of Death Valley in the Mohave Desert is the Ash Meadows National Wildlife Refuge, estb. June 1984. Over 22,000 acres of spring-fed wetlands surprised us in this remarkable place. In addition to 24 plants and animals found nowhere else in the world, it is also a home for 4 species of the rare and endangered pupfish. These tiny colorful fish are living reminders that so much of this now arid lands were covered with water. As the water withdrew, the remaining fish were isolated (left high and wet so to speak) in the last remaining water sources. The pupfish were uniquely able to survive and adapt to the brackish waters.

Follow me now as we enter the wet lands. We had no idea of the delights of which were to follow.

Crystal Springs is one of 10 springs in Ash Meadows that together discharge over 10,000 gallons per minute. Originating in the high mountains of central and northern Nevada, it is estimated that these waters take thousands of years to seep and trickle down to this spring. I did not 'enhance' this photo. The springs are really this color. I have said wow so many times on this trip that my 'wows' have lost their currency. I leave it to you to have your own comments.

Death Valley. When you least expect it. Water

2009-01-31T21:57:00.001-08:00

1/26 Death Valley

2009-01-31T21:34:00.000-08:00

Zoom in to the tiny white spot.

There we are. Just about the real right size I would guess.

Walking up an Alluvial Fan

2009-01-31T16:21:00.000-08:00

When I thought of Death Valley, I always thought--well, valley. Death Valley, however, is all about its mountains! Although in some places the valley's sediment depth measures as much as 9000' deep, without these mountains with their tremendous sediments deposits there would not be these valleys. Death Valley displayed some of the most magnificent alluvial fans I have ever seen. Let me take you up one of these fans and into it's canyon. Although it is hard to show the scale of this fan, I estimate it's base to be over 8 miles wide. You are looking at it from over 20 miles away.
Although the fans appear smooth from a distance, in reality they are deeply grooved and highly channeled.

The 'top' of the fan suddenly narrows sharply into a tight stone waist.
Canyon walls reflect many combinations of rock squeezed together and twisted over time.

This passage is about 5' wide and who knows how high. These beautiful stones walls are marble. The corridor was cool and golden and smooth, smooth, smooth. We climbed with hands and feet and bottom-slides down curving, curling, water-shaped channels.

We are still nowhere near the 'top' of the canyon; this place is just another widening and branching of passageways. We watched this pattern repeat until we finally decided to turn back. Now watching all these canyons from the valley road--I want to follow all of them up and up and up.

Death Valley--Again, 1/25

2009-01-25T20:48:00.001-08:00

Sand dunes near Stovepipe, Death Valley

Alluvial fan cuts/shelves. Marble Canyon, Death Valley

Entry to Marble Canyon, Death Valley

Ruby does Death Valley

Bullfrog Hills, Beatty, CA (Wild Mule Valley) 1/23

2009-01-25T20:17:00.000-08:00

This lovely little valley and its surrounding peaks gave us such pleasure. We discovered it the evening after a day in the vast spaces of Death Valley. As we parked to watch the sunset, a soft misty rain moved in and brought all the huge scale down to a very personal size. We hiked up the canyon in the mist and discovered burro dropping and signs of a herd. One of my personal wishes was to see a wild herd but we could not believe our eyes when 9 burros emerged out of the twilight. We were able to get to within a couple hundred yards of the grazing family and sat with them until darkness came. What a wonder. Rain and burros. We were so charmed by this place that we came back and hiked and worked for a couple of days. The weather remained mostly foggy and cool except for a few blazing moments when the skies parted and illuminated this now (the mining is all gone) pristine place. We did not make much art but just walked our legs off and just were happy.

Death Valley, 1/23

2009-01-25T19:46:00.000-08:00

Lone Pine, Alabama Hills, CA

2009-01-25T19:17:00.000-08:00

Bishop, CA to Lone Pine, CA,1/21/09

2009-01-23T20:54:00.000-08:00

The Wilderness Act 1964 defined wilderness as "a place where the earth and it's community of life dominates the landscape; natural processes are allowed to operate freely; where man himself is a visitor who does not remain."

Sutter Creek to Bishop, CA 1/20/09

2009-01-23T20:28:00.000-08:00

I had no idea that the WEST side of the Sierra Mountains was so stunning. Vast spaces. Crystal lakes. This frozen lake electrified us by squeaking and groaning as we stood (gingerly) by its shore. The gap you see is where the ice was flexing and pushing (expanding) up out of the lake. Spooky as can be; fabulous!

Carson City to Sacramento to Sutter Creek, CA

2009-01-23T20:01:00.000-08:00

My beloved Uncle Frank lives in Sacramento and I cannot come this far and not see him--however briefly. So, over the Sierra Mountains! Wow. That's all I have to say about that. Lake Tahoe. How stunning. How expensive. The same afternoon we headed east towards the mountains again and spent the night in the famous gold-rush town, Sutter Creek, CA. We took a long evening walk up and down the hills of this tiny town. Missouri and Chicago folk, I must tell you the grass was green and daffies were in bloom. Tomorrow we will search to find a route back over the Sierras and find most of the little roads closed for the season--still snow blocked. But for this evening at least, Spring.

Carson City, NV 1/19

2009-01-23T19:18:00.000-08:00

A quiet moment with my knitting (Marianne's light-filled hall; Marianne's photo).
Many, many thanks to Marianne and Aaron and their 'kids'. (Check out the look on Star's face--how she loves her people.) Aaron has been a son to me ever since he followed Ben and Faith home one day after school. This luminous couple dined us (Aaron made his famous manicotti), hiked us, played and laughed with us, listened to all our stories and provided a guestroom with a fabulous king-sized bed and generally treated us like royality. How can it be that Aaron is all grown and wonderful. It happened so fast! How amazing to be hosted by Marianne and Aaron. What a wonderful life they are building together.

Look again, these are not garden statues. Old town, Carson City-one block from the governor's mansion.

We two couples bumped our cars back into this narrower Carson River canyon. The 'kids' ran and swam their beautiful dogs while John and I climbed this ridge (see tiny vehicles down by river) and made some quick art. Waiting for artists is like watching paint dry :)

I think this part of the canyon should be called Great Lizard Bend. Can you guess?

Carson River, Nevada, 1/15/09

2009-01-23T18:40:00.000-08:00

For a woman who LOVES sage brush, this beauty is fantastic. As you can see, I am in heaven! We spent the afternoon at the (empty) Churchill State Park walking and drawing. At this place, the Carson is a wild, free thing--unhampered by levies. It's clear, cold water glides in braided paths over golden, clean sand. I found my drawing place on the sandy bank in an already cupped grove--a beaver's slide

John and I joked about the beavers living along the Carson River. Upon seeing this big 'cut', he said, "I wonder what is biggest tree a beaver can take out?" I responded, "I wonder what is the biggest beaver a tree can take out?" (Imagine putting your jaws into the vice of a tree trunk.)
First TUMBLEWEEDS of the trip. (Carson River temporarily held at Lahontan Res.) I grew up with these surreal plants. I always thought of them as just weeds but absence does make the he heart grow fonder. I still do not miss pulling their sharp stickers out of my bare feet but now can appreciate their miraculous desert-lace structure.

Carson River, NV

2009-01-16T11:18:00.000-08:00

Just a bit more...

2009-01-15T20:02:00.001-08:00

1/14/09 Eureka to Fallon, Nevada

2009-01-15T17:42:00.000-08:00

Entering: Poor Little Cloud

Wow, where to start today's tale.

The mountain ranges in Nevada run mainly in a north/south direction. These long bony warriors often run parallel and overlap--giant fingers dove-tailed together. They are separated by inland basins--flat lands that were once lakes and now occasional wet-lands. John tells me these wide low spaces are without outlet--marooned as it were, lying between their huge guardians. As we are now traveling west, we cross them at right angles, one after another--like body surfing. Usually the cross-over is achieved at a low (for you Mid-west folk-read this) 6500-7000' pass, but this morning leaving Eureka we drove down and out onto the flat lands. The bluffs raised up on either side and channeled us into a tight-waisted passage. Up ahead, I could see a pale band of fog hovering just above the ground. It seemed strangely out of place in the dry high desert. The sky was a brilliant done of stunning morning blue--the cloud was the only cloud in sight. "Look at that", I told John, "It is a little lost baby cloud who must have woke late--after all the other big clouds had already gone. Poor little thing!" The road drew us into the cloud's denseness; suddenly all visibility shut down. The stillness and silence, in spite of our car's motor, seemed profound; we felt suspended. (Have I previously mentioned that this particular stretch of Highway 50 calls itself the Loneliness Highway in America?) We had left heavy frost behind us a couple of days ago but now around us the sage brush and occasional juniper tree were deeply frosted--sagging under a load of thick, white, bristly lace. Just fifteen minutes ago we had comfortably loaded our morning's luggage in a 45 degree morning.

I glanced at the car's outside temperature gauge. The screen read 30. In the next couple of minutes we watched the gauge plummet. 28, 26, 21, 18, 10, 8, 7, 5, 3 degrees! We pulled over to the shoulder and stepped out. Maybe the gauge was broken. Wooow! it was 3 degrees. Teach me to laugh at Mother Nature! By this time we were both pretty freaked out. Me? I had the hair going up on my neck and the body-creepies: tunes from the Twilight Zone playing in my head. Should we go on? Go back? Ah what the heck. After all, we are Empty Nesters. (Mark that pride.) Go on!

Well....to make this long tale short--it was probably an inversion layer. I've also had Marianne suggest it was perhaps the rare occurrence called a pogonip or maybe it was what the Shoshone called the White Death. Maybe the Big White Mountain Folk must have slide their big Cold down off their slippery slopes--all at the same time. What an unbelievable combinations of weather and land conditions. Luckily it was just a grand adventure for us. Probably no one else will ever believe this--how could they! We drove 30 more miles across the big valley and gradually up towards the next mountain range, the temperatures rising as we went. Looking back we could see the frost line lying at the bottom of the distant mountains. Ah, this amazing planet. It still has a lot of tricks up its sleeves. How grand!

Oh yeah, a few more things today: more snow and no other people at the roadside attractions. It is still only us floundering to find the interpretative trails. We forgot the trails and did some bush hiking up a gloriously steep slope. (Oh how I wish I had snow shoes. I'm figuring out what those awkward-looking things for!) I confess, I had a loss of confidence (heights and shaky knees), just before the summit and did not make the top. (John did!). Most of my decent was of the skid-wet-bottom type. Still--want to do it again! Other highlights: a 1995 fault line way back in a remote canyon--this time we shared the site with some lovely cattle; saw the Shoe Tree; saw sand dunes and salt flats. Tonight we will sleep in a really cheap motel and (after not eating all day), will stuff ourselves on hot Chinese food.

Farewell Idaho, HELLO Nevada! (Twin Falls, ID to Ely, NV)

2009-01-12T20:36:00.001-08:00

Some Wonderful Idaho Things:

The Land, the canyon, the land, the snow

The People. Thank you Mom and Dad Louder, Jan, Roger, Elana, Lars, Micky and Melissa!

Natural hot-springs.

Wild birds. Bald and golden eagles; canadian geese 'setting' their wings and gliding down into the canyon without even flapping once; ducks--oh so many wonderful ducks;

hot coffee and free internet at Zulu's.

Some Really Gross Idaho Things:

Acres of dairy cows standing ankle deep in wet in frozen, shitty feedlots; dairy calves imprisoned in rows of tiny boxes with only room for their heads to stick out and barely room to turn around--each calf separated from another--alone, cold, no room to move or play or touch another living thing--no mama to moo or comfort. Infant prisoners. I did not want to know this about the dairy industry. I try to avoid consumption of products that support the inhumane treatment of living things. It is not that I am opposed to eatting meat--after all, life lives from life. It is the lack of appreciation, respect and reverence for other living things. I love drinking milk. Boy, I have a real personal conflict now. I am appalled and saddened.

Idaho gifts us with a parting rainbow.

HELLO Nevada! Rudy Mountains in the background. Oh Nevada--I was wrong about you--you have so much more than I ever thought! Hold on to your title Wyoming! Traveling from Twin Falls to Ely, we saw the most amazing ranges of mountains--mountains I had never even heard of before. Mountains, mountains, such an abundance of mountains! These long, bony 'forearms' held us--cupping our route and rising us on each side--great, white loaves of white snow, rock outcrops, pinion pine and juniper. My eyes stretch up into canyon after canyon to slide back down and out onto valleys formed of giant, graceful alluvial fans. By the end of the day I have a stiff neck--just from looking around and trying to take it all in. I feel like Rip van Winkle waking up from a long sleep--I want to walk, look, draw, walk, look, walk--I want it all!

John and I finished our day with supper in an old hotel/casino in Ely. What a contrast there! Dinner was barley soup, grilled ham and cheese sandwiches followed with decaf coffee and huge slices of coconut cake. (Diet tomorrow!) We found a lovely, clean affordable motel with good internet and a great bed. Tomorrow promises a warmer day for hiking and drawing, maybe less snow and time to look some more. Oh, life is good!

Just before we leave, Mom lets us try out pitching our new tent in her living room. What a good sport!